Malacca – A Blaze Trail to History
We were attending a ‘kenduri’ (sort of thanksgiving ceremony) at Malacca (Malays: Melaka) during the weekend and decided to take the opportunity to visit the well-known historical city. Even though my family was rooted in Malacca, I rarely got the chance to actually explore the place. Malacca is one of the state in Malaysia, situated on the south of the peninsular, bordered by the state of Negeri Sembilan and Johor. Bandar Hilir, the capital of Melaka has been listed by UNESCO as one of the World Heritage Site in July 2008. To reach here, 2 hours driving from Kuala Lumpur is required via the North-South Expressway exiting at the Ayer Keroh interchange.
A Brief History shall we?
Malacca was founded by a Srivijayan prince of Palembang, Parameswara who fled from Sumatra due to the Majapahit attack in 13th century. In search for a hiding place, he found a land with good port and strategically located. Legend says, while he was resting under a tree during his occasional hunting, he saw his dog cornered a mouse-deer. In an attempt to escape, the mouse deer managed to push the dog into a nearby river. Seeing this as a prophecy that “the weak shall overcome the powerful” he was determined to build a settlement there and then. He named the place ‘Melaka’ after the tree he had taken shelter.
The prosperity of Malacca attracted the invasion of Siamese, and by building a good relationship with China, Malacca was able to ward off further attacks. To enhance the relations, a Chinese princess of the Ming’s Dynasty, Hang Li Po was married to the Sultan (the king). Her 500 attendants that accompanied her married the locals and settled in Bukit Cina. These descendants were later becoming the Peranakan, a blend of malay-chinese community. By controlling the trading of the Straits of Malacca, the country became a great empire and was also central in the spread of Islam in the Malay Archipelago.
Being conquered by many forces in the past namely the Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch and English, and with a bit of ancestral linking to the ancient Hindu-Sumatra, plus; it lies on the strategic place within the imperative spice-route and welcome traders as far as Gujarat in India and the Arabs. The bizarre combination is what making Melaka so rich and colorful in cultures and history.
The Ayer Keroh exit
Upon entering the town area, we spotted this mosque. Most of the mosque in Malacca has this unique architecture, a combination of influence of Sumatra, Chinese and India.
Another old landmark. This is actually the St. Peter’s Church, the oldest Catholic church in Malaysia. The building was constructed by the descendants of the Portuguese soldiers in 1710, during the Dutch governance of Malacca, a few years after the religious freedom is proclaimed. Earlier, under Governor Bott, a zealous Protestant-Dutch Governor allowed all religions in Malacca except Roman Catholic. The oldest item of the church is the bell in the tower, which dated back to 1608 and was imported from Goa, India.
The rapidly growing town. Sky scrappers popped up like daisies amidst the old historical buildings.
We entered two rows of old, red-coloured shophouses along Jalan Laksamana, a reminder of Dutch domination of the country.
Not far from the red-shophouses is the St. Francis Xavier church, another historical building. I later learned that this twin-spired neo-gothic church was built by a Spanish missionary in 1849 and was modelled after the Cathedral of St. Peter in Montpellier in Southern France.
We parked our car at Jonker street and start scavenging the area on foot. Hopefully the exoticness of the place will help us endure the super-hot and humid weather.
Jonker street or locally known as Jalan Hang Jebat is the antiquities haven. It is also famous as the Baba-Nyonya settlements, a Peranakan community. The Peranakan originates when the Chinese immigrants during the Malacca Sultanate married the locals, and thus their cultures assimilated. Blended with Malay culture, the Baba-Nyonya (Baba refers to the male while Nyonya refers to the female) has distinctive similarities in terms of clothing, foods and language.
It is so hot and glaring; Ahnaf has to shut his eyes to avoid the glare 
Our excursion brought us to this temple, still in the vicinity of Jonker Street. Known as the Cheng Hoon Teng temple, it was built in 1645, the oldest in Malaysia and is one of UNESCO World Heritage assets.
A young girl at the Cheng Hoon Teng’s entrance.
Opposite to the shrine, we spotted a shoplot with unique facade.
While at another angle, not far from the Cheng Hoon Teng temple, a pagoda-like minaret attracts my attention.
It is the minaret of Kampung Kling mosque that we saw. Built in the 18th century by the Indian-Moslem traders, this mosque is a symbol of multi-cultural influence. Why do I say so? Lets see… first and foremost, the dome and the pagoda-like minaret are of the Sumatra-Hindu influence.
Second, the Portuguese-English glazed tiles
And third, the praying hall. Note the symmetrical Corinthian collumns adorns with the Victorian chandeliar.
Forth, the wooden, intricately carved pulpit symbolize the Chinese-Hinduism influence.
And finally, the pool for the ablution with strong Hindu influence, but the pillar is of the Romans. What a bizarre combination.
A when you walk further away, you will find the Sri Poyyatha Vinayaga Moorthy Temple, the oldest Hindu temple all along the same road, within close proximity. No doubt Malaysia is known as the most cultural-religious tolerence country in Asia. In fact the street where these tree shrines are located is dubbed as the ‘harmony street’.
We continue walking until we reach a juncture with this red building and clock tower stands out against the wide blue sky. Yes, this is the most famed Stadthuys, the landmark of Malacca town. Literally means “Town Hall’ in Dutch, it previously served as the administrative center of the Dutch Governor and its deputy. Constructed in the 16th century, this building is now has been converted into the Museum of History and Ethnology.
Next to it is the Christ Church building, dated back to 1753.
Colorful beca (read: trishaw) outside the Stadthuys. These beca is another Malacca’s attraction. With RM40 you could have a joy ride accross Malacca for an hour.
The view of the Straits of Malacca, a narrow waterway between peninsular Malaysia and Sumatra. It is the most important shipping channel as it is the shortest link that connects the east and the west. It is named after the Empire of Malacca during its heydays and is the main gateway for the early traders. As Malacca is strategically located, it became the trade center of the east.
St. Paul’s Church. Located on the summit of the St. Paul’s Hill, this church was built in 1521 by a Portuguese Captain, Duarte Coelho. Initially named as the “Lady of the Hill”, this church used to temporarily interred the body of St. Francis Xavier, the Spannish missionary who is dubbed as the ‘Apostle of the Indies’, before it was taken to its final resting place in Goa, India. The Dutch later convert this church as the burial ground for their noble dead, and renamed “St. Paul’s Church”.
Tombstones inside St. Paul’s Church.
Ahnaf at one of the church’s exit.
Situated on the foot of the hill is the Porta de Santiago, a fortress built by Alfonso de Alburqueque, the Portugal commandor when they invade Malacca in 1511. Nick named ‘A Famosa’ which literally means ‘The Famous’ in Portuguese, this fortress was used as the officer’s residents and ammunition storage. Most of the village clustered in town houses inside the fortress walls. The gatepost is what is left after it was being demolished by the English in the 18th century.
The fort changed hands in 1641 when the Dutch successfully drove the Portuguese out of Malacca. The Dutch renovated the gate in 1670, which explains the logo “ANNO 1670″ inscribed on the gate’s arch. Above the arch is a bas-relief logo of the Dutch East India Company.
Malacca at night
Glittering Becas
Hmmm… where did we parked our car?
the street is poured with red lights.. it sorts of giving a rustic, romantic, oriental ambience… I loiiikkeee…
>> End of Day 1.
