SIMPLY (t)RAVELLING

Banda Aceh: 6 Years Post-Tsunami

Third morning and our last day in Banda Aceh. It is still early, shops are yet to open. Banda Aceh is making such a progress that physical scars of Tsunami are barely visible 6 years after the tragedy. But I believe, to the people of Aceh the emotional scars are yet to heal.

Bits and pieces of the tragedy are still there though, when you plunged deeper into Aceh isolated nooks and cranny.

Simpang Lima, the prominent landmark of Aceh, and the silent witness of the fatefull event.

We continue walking along the street until we arrived at the Iskandar Muda Commando Military Zone, abbreviated as ‘KODAM’. Army post such as this one could be found scattered in Banda Aceh, a relic of guerilla warfare between the separatist group  known as ‘GAM’ and the Indonesian government which had lasted from 1970’s until 2005, and had claimed 15,000 death toll. It took the tsunami to bring peace to Aceh; a peace deal that was signed shortly post tsunami ended up the 30 years of insurgency. The ceased of hostility was indispensable, in order to allow aid and rescue mission to reach the impacted area. It proves that in time of darkness, people will unite irregardless of their disputes.

’Peace is Beautiful’. Indeed, the most beautiful army slogan.

The Krueng Aceh River, which when hit by tsunami, was beset with dead bodies and debris.

Bypassed the river, we spotted a minaret, in solitude against the blue sky.

Which lead us to the Baiturrahman Grand Mosque, the momentous Aceh’s icon. Like the rest of worship structures in Aceh, it miraculously survives the tsunami, and savior to the refugees.

 The frontal view of the same mosque.

An epitaph to mark the spot where a Dutch general was killed in an attempt to destroy the holy structure.

Inside the mosque, communal and religious activities are taking place, the way they should be.

They also have english lesson here; as Islam emphasize on the balance between pursuing the worldly and hereafter life.

While I was busy snapping photos, DH is taking some time to reflect.

Me, inside Baiturrahman.

Adjacent to the mosque, is the old Atjeh Market.

Rows of washed out shops. Business seems not so hectic here, the rest of the lot has moved to the new complex.

Becaks waiting for passengers outside the mosque.

 

The new Pasar Atjeh Complex, thanks to the people of Japan.

Inside the new Pasar Atjeh, business here definitely targeting the ladies.

Enough with shopping, we hail a becak and ask for Port Lampulo. The driver agreed over Rp15k. Crisscrossing the busy street with an unhinged and overloaded becak is quite an experience.

A view from inside the becak, just after we ‘survived’ the traffic.

Shortly afterwards, we arrive at Port Lampulo, a fishing harbor outskirts of Banda Aceh. Soon this place will be developed into an international fishing port, part of the government effort to accelerate local economy growth.

Harboring fishing boats.

Some needs repairing before venturing out into the open sea.

We sauntered along the coast until we arrive at the depot.

The place was reconstructed by aid of Americares.

Inside the busy depot, which also serves as fish market among the locals.

Rows of colorful fish basket.

Fishing boats docking at the pier.

Red, seems to go well with deep blue and spotless white.

At the other side of the depot, business as usual.

 

 

Tuna and what’s not, fresh from the sea.

 As Lampulo serves the port for deep sea fishing, a gigantic catch like this one is no big deal.

My first time seeing such large squids.

The red grouper.

A man smashing the ice, getting ready for the next catch trip.

We leave the depot and back to Banda Aceh by the same means of transport. Along the way, we spotted an aid house in a midst of renovation, next to a decent bungalow. Acehrians seem to be doing well.

Late afternoon, we were fetched to the airport by Pak Darman to catch our 5.15pm flight back to KL. On the way, we bypass this mass grave of Siron, the largest in Aceh.

The landmark is purposely constructed in such a way to symbolize the tsunami waves.

Underneath, lies 50,000 souls. God bless them.

The new, posh building of the Sultan Iskandar Muda Airport.

Inside the departure lounge, waiting for our transport. Outside, an aircraft that belongs to Indonesia’s national airlines being pull over to the vacant gate, while the Seulawah Mountain silhouetted at the far end.

At 5.45pm local time, we are already airborne. Below, are the rugged slopes of the Barisan Range. The trip to Aceh was such an eye-opening and inspiring journey for us. Acehrians are amazingly resilient. We really salute their patience, despite all the shortcomings they are still getting on with their lives with such perseverance.

 

The End.

“To live in the hearts we leave behind is not to die.”

~ Thomas Campbell ~

 

“Death is not the greatest loss in life. The greatest loss is what dies inside us while we live.”

~ Norman Cousins ~

Footnote: Exactly 3 weeks after we came back from Aceh, Japan was hit by tsunami with magnitude the biggest ever recorded in history. While the people is still mourning over the lost of their property and love ones, they are now facing the threat of radiation due to nuclear power plant leakage. To the people of Japan, my condolences and heart are with them.