Shimmering Shwedagon
Early morning and we took a cab to Shwedagon Paya, the largest and the most prominent pagoda in Myanmar. The street was clear, so in less than 20 minutes we arrived at the the pagoda south gate. Our cab driver, Mr. Mon was kind enough to stop a few meters away so that we could snap a few photos of Shwedagon golden bell-shape dome.
Instead of dropping us at the front gate, Mr. Mon drove straight inside the complex and let us off at the parking lot near to the lift tower. It’s a faster access to Shwedagon, and also gave us the amazing view of the South gate intricate design.
Another view of the South gate Pyatthat from the Buddha perspective.
The South Gate, or zaungdans is actually one of the four entrances to the golden Shwedagon that sits atop the holy Singuttara Hill, via a flight of stairs. These entrances are located at each side of the pagoda, divided by the main cardinal directions – i.e. north, south, east and west.
We walked to the lift tower, and were asked USD5 per person as entrance fee, while locals enter for free. Like any other sacred complex, all visitors are required to dress modestly and remove their shoes at the entrance. Instead, we put our shoes in a plastic bag and carry it with us, as to convenience whenever and wherever we exit the building.
The view of the South Gate from the lift.
As we stepped in the complex, the first thing that we spotted was this man seriously looking through the built-in telescope. Wondering what interests him, I immediately followed his gaze.
He was actually zooming onto the Shwedagon peak, which is said to be ornated with colourful gems and diamonds, which abundant in Myanmar. It looks a bit plain though, the top in broad daylight, but somehow I could glimpse some sparkles when the sun was right.
Htee, the crowning top of Shwedagon main stupa. At the upmost tip where it is too high for human eyes to discern any details is the Sein Phoo or the diamonds bud, studded with exactly 5448 diamonds, 2317 rubies, sapphires and other gems. On top of all the gleaming gems, is a single 76-carat diamond, as it name suggests.
Tailing other visitors, we finally came in view with the magnificent Shwedagon main stupa. Plated with 21,841 solid gold bars; I’ve to admit that after all Buddhist shrines that I’ve visited across South East Asia so far, Shwedagon captivated me the most. It is a real showcase of Myanmar true culture, history, art and architecture. Built as old as 2,500 years ago, during the lifetime of Siddharta Gautama himself. Although destroyed numerous times in the past due to war, fire and natural disasters, it was quickly rebuilt and restored to its elegance state.
It is a massive gold plated stupa, standing at the height of 99 meters; one has to circumnavigate about 433 meters before he reach the starting point. Octagonal in shape, the structure is surrounded by 64 small stupas, with Manusiha (Buddha mythological version of a sphinx) guarding at each cardinal points.
The stupa is not the only thing that is covered in gold; most of items in the complex are made or masked with that precious element. A poor country, but Burmese are indiscreetely lavish especially when it comes to terms of religion and beliefs.
Crowds paid homage to the Buddha images standing inside Shwedagon small niches.
One of the praying hall inside Shwedagon complex, with beautiful and ostentatious fretworks that adorn each individual columns, arches and pyatthat. The complex consists not only of the grand centerpiece – the great stupa, but also over a hundred smaller stupas, prayer halls, sculptures and shrines.
Burma, being accounted as one-third of world’s total teak production, had most of the arches and shrines inside Shwedagon elaborately and beautifully carved with teaks. It is unsurprise that Burma could unsparingly built the longest teak bridge to just connects the rural, as seen at the U Bein Bridge in Amarapura.
One of the Buddhas that sit in the Hall of U Thin & Daw Thet Pyin.
A lady caught rolling deep into prayers.
A man praying in the Northern Devotional Hall.
Devout Buddhist all around Myanmar come to this place to pray and get their blessings, old and young.
We saw a woman preparing food, which we initially thought for the devotees.
We later learned that it was actually an offerings for the Buddha.
Praying is not the sole way of paying tributes to the Buddha, the locals also help in ensuring the place is clean and tidy. All is done for free, expecting only for the eternal blessings.
Sweeping patrols of Shwedagon.
Cleaning is usually done in large groups, and usually in a row. They moved swiftly in somehow rhythmical motions, scrubbing and polishing the bit before shifting to the next in sync with the others. I could sit and watch them doing the chores like forever. I bet the last girl will have very little to clean, as the rest of them had done their parts.
As a rule, when a Buddhist visits a pagoda, he or she invariably sits and prays in his or her birthday corner. Above, is one of the 8 planetary post, where devotees with that birthday pour water and make offerings to the Buddha image. Eight, as according to Buddhism there are 8 days a week instead of 7, where Wednesday is divided into two equal half of morning and evening. Sunday was the best day of all, and Sunday-Born people are often considered lucky. I was born on Monday, and these are what the Buddha has to say about me:
Character: good memory, serious, love to travel
Optimum profession: trader, doctor, nurse, fisherman
Very lucky day/color: Saturday/black
Lucky day/color: Wednesday (day)/green
Unlucky day/color: Sunday/orange
Now I’m thinking of shifting my career to fishing on my next life. 
At shwedagon buddha images and shrines are ceremonially poured with water from silver bowls, though I’m not sure what it means. Perhaps it is a custom seen as a way of paying respect to the person of the Buddha himself.
Sunday-born devotees pouring water at the planetary post of the Sun.
The day one is born plays an important role in every Myanmar Buddhist, as it affliates with astrological impacts of their daily life. The planet associated with one’s birthday will be the main custodian of his fate and fortune. This belief is so significant that a born Buddhist will be named after the day he/she is born, which he/she will carry for the rest of his/her life, rather than a family name.
A young monk, seemed to be lost in thought.
We decided it was time to leave, as the place was getting crowdier by the minute. The day was getting hotter too - the heat from the marbles starting to chew our bare soles, and we were sweating like hell by the warmth eminated from the golds. We gave one last look to the glamourous stupa, before we head off.
We walked back to the South Gate, and this time using the stairs to exit. Along the length of the stairway on either side are the shops that sell Buddha images, flower pots, religious charms, books on Buddhism, flowers and souvenirs.
Paper flower offerings, Shwedagon South Gate.
Upon exiting we came in full view with the two beautiful and equally fearful Chinthes, the mythical creatures of half lion, half griffin. This mythical creatures could be seen guarding most entrances to pagodas in Myanmar.
Squatting at the gate were two ice cream peddlers with striking pink cones, and the thought of indulging the cold, homemade ice cream in the hot weather sounds great.
