The Trial Stones, Man-Eating Rites & Royal Tomb with Runaway Bride
Samosir is not only tranquil as it is beautiful; the land is also rich with legends and cultures of the Batak people. Historians believed the Batak were initially tribe people that dwelled in the mountainous region that bordering Burma and Thai, which migration to Sumatra instigated by Mongolian expansion of territory and power. Another version says that they were actually descendants of the ancient kingdom folks of Srivijaya, who had retreated to Lake Toba due to the attack from Cola Empire of India and Majapahit circa 12th century.
Our inaugural introduction to the Batak animism culture begun en route to Simanindo, where we accidently came across a stone-carved effigy and a signboard that says “Welcome to the Historical Site of Parulubalangan”. Curious, we decided to stop by and check it out.
The stone-carved effigy that guards the entrance to Parulubalangan.
As we entered the site, an old man in sarong approached and introduced himself as the keeper. According to him, the place was once an orchard belongs to a village, and the fate of any enemy or thief who had been caught trespassing will be decided at the stone table and chairs by the village elders.
Another view of the stone table. One thing interesting about the Batak is that they were once practice cannibalism, with these wrongdoers being their usual targets. Victim deemed guilty and deserved death will be beheaded, their flesh cooked and eaten and their blood drank!
The place was also the village site of worship. Clumps of human hair, an old pottery and primitive figurines are some of the relics that could still be seen. I forgot to ask whether those clumps of hair belong to the victims. High chances they are! @_@
From Parulubalungan we continued our journey to Huta Siallagan, a small village in Ambarita, about 10km from Tuktuk. Founded by the Siallagan clan hundred years ago (thus explain the name), the village is surrounded by thick brick walls and was once planted with bamboo in order to keep the village of the enemy and wild animals. The entrance is guarded with a large stone statue known as Panglulubalang, believed to be the village guardian and to ward off evil spirits.
As we passed the entrance we arrived at the village courtyard, where eight traditional Batak houses were built adjacent to each other. Each house was usually inhabited by more than one to four families, and they are still looking strong and firm despite being hundreds of years old. The space underneath the house is where the livestock are kept.
In the middle of the courtyard there is a large tree known as Hau Habonaran which literally means the ‘Tree of Truth’, with a cluster of stone chairs and table rested beneath it. The tree was planted by the village founders; if it grows that means the place was suitable for a settlement. Similar to Parulubalungan, the stone chairs it is the place where the king and village elders held council and discussed about the village affairs, and also a place for trials and hearing criminal case.
While waiting for trial the offender is kept under the Chief’s house, with leg cuffs and all.
If the offender were found guilty of a serious crime, he will be taken to a second trial stone for execution, not far from the first one. The appropriate execution day was chosen according to the Batak calendar, and after consulting the village elders. What happen next is spine-chilling. To ensure the victims were rid of his supernatural powers should he have any, his body will be slashed with sharp knife over and over again until there’s no more blood coming out. This so called ‘cleansing ritual’ further continues where the lime water is dripped into the cut of the victim’s heavily mutilated body until the King shaman is satisfied that the villain no longer has any magical powers. The victim immediately executed afterwards, usually with a single blow, which separated his head from the body. The shaman then stabs the heart of the victim with a piece of wood and removed his heart, to be eaten by the king. The Batak believed that by eating of the flesh of the enemy, they will gain strength and power. This barbaric act also serves as a mean to frighten the would-be invaders.
I had enough of blood and killing for one day, so we walked back to the main courtyard and decided to inspect the interior of one of the Batak houses. What amazes me it was the same house built hundred of years ago during the King Siallagan era (except the roof, where they have been changed to modern zinc material), and we found it still stout and sturdy. If you notice, traditional Batak houses has typical small door and I always wonder the rationale behind it. I later learned that it was purposely built in such a way so that the guest will have to be careful and bow down when entering, as to avoid the low beam above. The act of bowing is thus indirectly showing respect and courtesy to the owner of the house.
Traditional Batak drums made of cow’s skin. It was a bit small and cramp inside the house – without any room, and I wonder how it fits four families staying together. Although the witty in me is more curious on how couples spent their ’private moments’ with the rest of families around. Haih!
Colorful Ulos, the traditional hand-woven Batak cloth that is mostly worn during important events and ceremonies.
We rode as far as Simanindo, and then returned back to touristy Tomok for some quick shopping. A glance at the watch showing 10am; as we still have a few hours before the boat back to Parapat me and DH agreed that we should pay a visit to King Sidabutar’s grave.
Since the tomb was hidden from the main road, we asked a local chap to its whereabouts and he was so kind to even extent his help by riding with us and guide the way. He took us through some small alley with souvenir stalls line up on both sides, and the tomb was located at the end of the path. We couldn’t thank him enough for his kindness; parked our bike under the shade of tree blossoming with pinkish bell flowers and walked to the main gate. No fee was asked for entering, in substitute visitors are requested to don the Ulos (which can be loaned at the gate) as a symbol of respect.
Our gaze immediately fell on the ulos-adorned sarcophagi as we entered the graveyard; with some of them look ancient while a few seem more modern with sign of crosses embellished on them. The biggest and the most majestic of them have some carvings on it, which resembles the face of a man. A figure which looks like a woman is sitting at the other end, while another image of a man is carved underneath his beard. It appears that this is the tomb of King Sidabutar, one of the earliest kings of Batak that first settled in Samosir. The image of the man under his beard was the king’s most loyal guardian, while the woman is said to be his betrothed but without fulfillment.
Spotted some child-size tombs in the compound, perhaps belong to royal family members who died young.
We drifted to the back of the main graveyard, and found ourselves in a field littered with stone statues about waist high, which purpose still a mystery to me.
Another set of statues in the backyard of King Sidabutar grave.
Apart from the King Sidabutar stone casket, decrepit statues, sculpture of lizards and breasts (a symbol of fertility no less) there’s nothing much to see and visiting grave sort of giving me this creepy feeling so we decided to cheer ourselves with some shopping at the many souvenir stalls outside the compound. But that, is another story.
