A Fishy Story in Yangon

On March 1, 2012 by Niza Zainal

 

Traipsing around some fresh fish, vegetables, fruits and flowers, which interspersed along the narrow, crowded alley and in dark, dilapidated building was how we spent our first morning in Yangon. In fact, we were the only strangers there amongst the many longyi clads and thanaka smeared faces. We were early, but the market was already bustling with patrons looking for fresh meat and veggies, and the place was lively with loud, melodious call for customers by the boisterous vendors, people chit chatting at the nearby coffee shop and buyers transacting at one corner. It was noisy and full of colors.

 

DH at the entrance of the market.

 

Man selling banana fritters at the market.

 

Road side stall serving local pancakes for breakfast, with the traditional baking style. The flour mixtures were spread into the frying pan on a hot stove, and then covered with embers on top of it to ensure that it is cooked evenly. It reminds me the making of the traditional Malay cake of Bahulu, during the old days.

 

Woman selling flowers at the market, usually used as offerings at temples and shrines.

 

A lady at the market selling the sweet traditional cake of Htamanè, a seasonal festive savory in Myanmar. Made of glutinous rice cooked with sesame seeds, ground nuts and coconut oil which are then mixed in a pot using a large spatula. The cooking is something like Malaysian dodol.

 

 

A monk doing his early morning alms round.

 

Thanaka cheeked smile at the market. Thanaka, a yellowish paste made of ground bark applied on the face as an effective sun blocks and to prevent acne. I remember my late grandmother used to make a white powdery paste from rice to be put to the face for the same cooling effect.

 

A girl minding the flower stall at a market downtown Yangon. 

 

A pile of bamboo weaved boxes. Wonder what’s inside.

 

These are what inside the neatly crafted boxes. Strawberries! My guessed they come all the way from the north, as it is much cooler there. The strawberries looked rather wilted though, due to the change of climate.

 

What else to do in a market for DH, except sampling and collecting dried shrimps which usually ended up in flour fritters back at home. By the way, the guy who minds the shop (the one smiling in the photo) used to work in Malaysia few years back - in Balakong if I’m not mistaken, and he’s glad to assists us in simple Malay language.

 

Yangon Hot Dogs. Pork to be precise.

 

This one looks familiar though. Pulut Panggang in Yangon? 

 

A patron having a quick sniff of lime – to distingush the young from the ripe and the watery.

 

Burma is indeed photographer friendly.

 

A lovely rose among the flowers. She looks more of a Vietnamese to me. Off course, thanaka is the beauty secret.

 

A familar smells lured me to the nearby stall. I was not surprised to see freshly hot and crispy Yau Char Kue, a Chinese crullers simply known as cakoi‘ in Malaysia being fried, after seeing so many familiar food the night before. With only two plain breads we had for breakfast, the smell and the look of it really made me hungry again.

 

Err…on second thought, thanks but no, thanks. The locals found the view adds up to the appetite nonetheless.

 

We drifted into the dark building made of zinc at the end of the path, more of an old warehouse actually; which houses the wet section of the market. It was dimmed and damped inside, lit only by a few flourescent bulbs. Weak streaks of sunrays that permeated through the opening and the yellowish windows illuminate the inside with a dreamy and eerie effects. It was a bit quiet in the building though, only to be intermittently disturbed by some chopping sounds. Vendors waiting for customers in the dark, and some of the lot were unoccupied. Life was like frozen in time.

 

 Halal beef by a muslim lady.

 

 Another muslim vendor selling fresh mutton.

 

 Some scenes inside the wet market section.

 

Trading cat, are they now? such a cute little fella. “I like this cozy basket ’coz it fits me nicely, and the color suits with my dark brown eyes, so I think I would be sitting here to chill out for a while”  that’s what she said, more or less. I think.

 

 After taking some photos we leave the dark and gloomy building and found ourselves in the back alley.

 

We loitered a while at the market enjoying the mild hustle and bustle before walking back to the main road. Spotted a vendor selling the red, mouth-watering wax apple on shoulder poles; they looked tempting, but considering that most of the crops in Burma are fertilized by garbage-infested water, I closed my eyes and walked past them. 

 

I was actually trying to photograph the lady but his son spontaneously appeared from the back, with unabashed smile. What I like about Burmese is that they won’t bother if you take their photos (but off course out of courtesy I will ask permission whenever I’m taking a close-up) and won’t stop for a pose (unless you asked) – which is great for me and my pictures cause they are all ended up looking so refreshingly natural.

 

Roadside vendors selling fresh fish, prawns and chicken in a street downtown Yangon. 

 

A kid playing with bubbles kept in small plastic bag, while waiting for his mommy doing the groceries. So adorable, he reminded me a lot of my son back at home.

 

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9 Responses to “A Fishy Story in Yangon”

  • pics, memang terbaik!!

    *wahh sana pun ada ‘cakoi’ ye niza??my fav tu hehehe

  • niza, mahu follow saya ke Medan end of this year? 22-25 dec – sesi ‘menembak’ di samosir.

  • avatar
    niza zainal

    Thanks Zilla.. Pics biasa-biasa, main tembak saja.. Banyak-banyak negara Asean kami lawati, kami rasa Myanmar yang paling banyak persamaan dengan kita.. dari kain pelikat dan kain batik mereka, makanan, bedak sejuk, bahasa dan rupa. Cakoi tu memang nampak sedap, tapi bila tengok panorama di belakang dan baunya, memang tak lalulah.. hehehe

    Wah Zilla ke Medan ke Dec ni.. kebetulan kami pun nak ke Medan tapi bulan Sep. Maaflah tak dapat nak ikut. 25 Dec tu pula ada kenduri di Perlis. Insya Allah trip lain kalau ada rezeki. Thanks a lot for asking. Really appreciate it. :D

  • avatar
    zilla

    niza, I’Allah ada rezeki ingin sekali ke myanmar ini.selain itu, sri lanka juga ada dalam wish list saya tapi nak laksanakan dalam this year, tak mampu sebab dah padat sangat ini..Mybe next yearlah kot..owh, teruk sgtkah baunya tapi kalau dah terdesak sgt,bolehlah kot hehehe

    owhh, takpelah kalau macam tu.maybe next time.this time nak explore samosir aje niza kerana lain2 tempat sudah pun disinggahi last year.I’Allah, ada rezeki sampailahke sana end of this year :)

  • avatar
    niza zainal

    Zilla,
    Samalah kita, saya pun ada hati nak ke Sri Langka tu.. tapi entah bila. Maybe tahun depan kut. Wah Zila banyak ye plan travel tahun ni, saya pulak start tahun ni travel nak kena slow down sikit, maklumlah anak dah start sekolah.. so dapat pergi time cuti sekolah aje… tiket masa tu pulak boleh tahan harganya.. sabar ajelah.

    Makanan dan minuman di Myanmar tu tak terjamin kebersihannya. Even air paip pun berkarat saja. Air minum mereka guna treated water. Saya tak berani nak cuba makanan tepi jalan, takut sakit perut pulak.

  • syoknya myanmar… teringin ke sana. maybe satu hari nanti. btw, gambar cantik as usual.. ;)

  • avatar
    niza zainal

    Thanks AieSha. Myanmar memang menarik, dan segalanya masih asli lagi. Saya syorkan pergi sebelum ia menjadi terlalu komersial. :)

  • wah, menarik betul, gambar pun cantik cantik, harap satu hari nanti dapatlah jejak kaki di mynmar ni.

  • avatar
    niza zainal

    Terima Kasih Chibi. :)

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