Ayutthaya was a ancient kingdom that existed from 1351 to 1767, founded by King U Thong in 1350. Officially known as Siam, its zenith was in line with some old Malay sultanates such as Malacca and old Kedah. In order to avoid war and conquest, Malacca befriended the great China and was sending gift in forms of golden flower every year to the King of Siam.  The same fate was not shared by Angkor, another kingdom in Cambodia where they frequently off into battles, which finally led to the fall of Ayutthaya in April 1767.

Upon arriving at Ayutthaya, the first thing that crosses our mind is to check the train schedule back to Bangkok. Actually, I’ve been thinking into getting other mode of transport, nevertheless we still take note of the train timing as our backup plan. 

It seems that trains passing through Ayutthaya on the way to Bangkok every half an hour. Very busy station, indeed. My advise better to check with the station master on the schedule accuracy though. 

While we are busy studying the train timetable and discussing where we should have our lunch, a guy approach us and offer his tuk tuk service. I politely say no, thinking that I might get better bargain outside the station but he is quite adamant. He looks decent, and at BHT200 per hour, his fee is quite reasonable. Since we are already hungry (don’t we always? ) we agree to take his offer. 

Our first tuk tuk ride. Breezy, with a lil’ off balance kinda feeling. 

We requested Bok (our driver) to take us for halal lunch, and he bring us to this eatery. The day is still gloomy, with dark clouds hanging above us. Hope we could still make it.   

While browsing for menu, I find it a bit hilarious. Yeah, mine is pretty meaty, but definitely not salty! LOL!

Pampered with choices; we end-up settle down with the common ones. Despite the names, the food are splendid nonetheless. Our menu of the day in anti-clockwise order: Duck rice, ox tail soup and ‘battery’ drinking water to charge us up.  The rice tastes like chicken rice but I really like the duck! And DH’s oxtail soup is simply marvelous! (really spicy, the way I like it. You can count the chilies). I wonder how ’mine pretty meat salt’ tastes like… **grin** 

Lunch over, and we are back to the reason why we are here at the first place.  Our first step into the UNESCO world heritage site and we are stunned. Wat Chaiwatthanaram is the name, and the view is amazingly breathtaking. 

One of the Prang, with Khmer influence. The trend of the era, I presume. Another theory suggests that the king of the time, King Prasat Thong built this temple to celebrate his recent victory over Angkor. 

Headless Buddha of Wat Chaiwatthanaram. Looters chopped off their heads in search of gold. Most of the paraphernalia  were sold to the antiquities and private collectors. Try watching the Thai movie, Ong Bak.

A path leading to one of the Prang. 

A small buddha inside the Prang, sitting as proxy to original decapitated one.

The bad weather is not so much unfortunate for us, after all.  The reddish ruin stands in total contrast of the dark sky. A bit dramatic, and I like it very much (syok sendiri). 

The three bell-shape chedis at Wat Phra Si Sanphet, storing the ashes and the burial remains of the royalties. 

 Built in the reign of King Boromtrilokanath in 1448 A.D, the complex ground was originally a royal palace. 

The compound was a privilage to the kings, and monks were not even allowed to enter. 

A walkway to what remains of the Wat. 

It is raining heavily, but that could not deter my spirit. 

The bricks of old.  I run my fingers on its rugged face, trying to trace reminiscences of kings and servants of the old days that might have lean on it.

Next, we make a move to the Wat Mahathat, to see ourselves the famous head of the Buddha sandstone nestled in the root of a bodhi tree. A robber after chopping its head, forgot to collect his loot, maybe.

Seems that I’m not the only one admiring it.

The sitting buddha, is the epicenter of the Wat. One and only that miraculously survives the guillotine.

It sits majestically in the presence of others headless members, of which looks like an assembly hall for the deities.

A bird resting on his shoulder, but he keeps on meditating in silence.

Reflection of the same buddha in a pool of  rain water. 

Relics of the past. Close up is the hand and the broken limbs,  or what was left of it.

It is still raining when we leave Wat Mahathat, and on the way back to the town we bypass an elephant ground. A mahout tends his keep.

Others relaxing while waiting for the rain to stops. 

It is already 4.30pm, and we decide it is time to head back to Bangkok. We leave the old city and Bok’s tuk tuk zooms pass the modern Ayutthaya.

Instead of going back to the train station, I ask Bok to drop us at the minivan station, in front of the Spin Bar & Restaurant.

DH and Bok.  A nice chap, speak and understand english and well recommended if you require a guide and driver to get around Ayutthaya.  He usually waits for passenger at the train station and can be contacted via +66 0861294260.

We say goodbye to Bok, pay his tuk tuk service and hop into the minivan. It is almost dusk when we reach Bangkok an hour later. The van driver drops us off at Victory Monument and we pay him BHT60 each. DH need to go to the loo, so we get inside the Fashion Mall next to the station. While waiting for him mending his business I spot a massage parlour and decide to give it a try. Afterall, my feet are all sore and aching from too much walking. At a rate of BHT150 per hour, it is the cheapest that I get (the price usually around BHT300 - BHT400 per hour). Simply ignore my ugly feet.

End of Day 2.

Next: Damnoen Saduak Floating Market.

25 July 2011.

We wake up early to a gloomy morning on the second day. After some simple breakfast, we hail a cab outside the hostel and ask for the Southern Bus Terminal. The taxi driver nod and let us come in. The plan is to visit the floating market, but only after a few hundred meters away we realized that the driver doesn’t even know where he’s going neither does he understand what we are saying. We ask him to stop before it’s getting too far, but he simply refuses to let us; his first passengers slip away.  He stops here and there, asking for direction and I already getting on my nerves. The clock is ticking; it requires about 2 hours drive to the floating market, it is already 8.00am and the market will close at noon – but the southern bus terminal is no where to be seen. At last, he stops in front of a travel agent company and I realized we have been trapped in a scam. I’ve heard and read about it so much before coming here and yet unable to avoid it. It really irritates me. When he finally opens the door to the travel agent company, we pay him a few Bhat, simply walk away and sternly say “No”.

Walking fast to avoid them following and pestering us, we are brought back to the familiar neighborhood.  After discussing with DH, hesitantly we flag another cab as the Southern Bus Terminal is on Bangkok outskirts and unreachable by MRT/BTS. This time, thank god we get a decent driver but unfortunately we are caught off with Bangkok’s maddening traffic. Seeing that there is no way we could reach the bus terminal in time and risk losing the whole day jaunt, we change our plan and ask the driver to divert to the Hua Lamphong station instead. Floating market will have to wait for another day.

The colonial accents of the Hua Lamphong station façade that stands through time, since as early as 1916.

The station is in the midst of repair; some workers are taking time off before starting their work.

In one corner of the station…

Inside Bangkok main railway station.

It is almost 8.30am when we reach there. There is actually train going to Ayutthaya at 8.35am, but we don’t want to hurry. Enough panicking for one day.

Our class three ticket to Ayutthaya. Bhat15 each and that is considered conveniently cheap for a 2 hours ride.

DH relaxing while waiting for our train to depart at 9.25am. One hour should be enough for me, photo hunting as usual.

Right you mean? Or is it a service for left out baggage? Or a service that allows you to leave your baggage? I’m confused.

Another angle of Hua Lamphong.

Passengers waiting for their train, I guess. Treat yourself like you are in your own home.

Train at platform nine and three quarter. Oops sorry, platform 321. Too much Harry Potter.

It’s pouring outside, but I just love the effect it made on this chug.

Bangkok terminal.

The train departs from platform 8 at 9.45am, 20 minutes delayed. It is still raining outside. Hope the weather change when we reach Ayutthaya, 85km away.

The train bypass Thai slums, and we get a glimpse of the life.

10 minutes on board, and DH has already succumbed to his usual activity on any transport.

I am actually trying to photograph the feel of the train when suddenly these officers decided to get into the act and add the flavors.

An old coach transmogrified into kids library. A very good waste management.

A typical scene at one of the stops.

A call for food is common at every station, and some of the peddlers are even on board. It is almost noon and we feel a bit hungry, but most of the food is inedible. Hygienic is a question, and halal is another factor. We ended up buying fruits to curb our hunger.  This one only cost us BHT10 and we get the whole chunk of it.

 The journey took us pass nondescript villages and stations, and we are quite anxious of where we should disembark. It is hot and I’m getting heavy eyed but think the better of it. We would not rather wake up somewhere else. I timidly asked the Thai lady that sits beside me in broken English, with no hope that she’ll understand me. Who would understand English in the suburb where very few understand me in Bangkok?

“Is Ayutthaya in front? You tell me when reach Ayutthaya?” I asked with my hand waving around, illustrating my query in case she could not grab it. To my surprise, she understands and answers in plain English. “Yes, Ayutthaya is in front. I will tell you”. A sprang of my spirit, that is!

The lady hints us when we are about to hit the station and I thanked her for her kindness. We quickly grab our stuffs and get off the train when it stops. Welcome Ayutthaya!

Ayutthaya at last!

>>Next: Ayutthaya, the Kingdom of Old Siam.