27th July 2011.

Our final day on the land of the white elephant. We will be going again to Ratanakosin Island to visit the Grand Palace.

Since we only have half day before our flight back to KL in the afternoon, to save the time we take a cab to the Palace. On the way we bypass the Bangkok Chinatown. Chinese is the only race that I know having their own settlement  in almost major city in the world.

The cab stop in front of Wat Pho, and since it is still early and Grand Palace is yet to open, we decide to have a look around.  These are the three of the four main chedis in Wat Pho, dedicated to the four kings of the Chakry Dynasty (King Rama I, II, III and IV).

Wat Pho is one of the oldest wat in Bangkok. It was built 200 years prior to the shifting of the Thai capital from Ayutthaya. It is famous as it houses a gigantic gold plated reclining Buddha and being the first University in Thailand. 

  

 Inside Wat Pho. A monk is giving a morning speech to a group of visiting school kids.

 One of the chedi at Wat Pho.

 On close-up. Intricately decorated with flower motifs made of porcelain, the wat is as beautiful as it is fragile.

Rows of Buddha. The wat houses about thousand Buddha in total, mostly taken from the old kingdom of Ayutthaya and Sukhothai.

The Wat rooftops are decorated with chofa, a typical element of Thai architecture. The wavy decoration resembles the body parts of mystical Buddhism animal such as the garuda (half bird half demon) and the naga (a serpent like animal), the guardians of the holy boundaries. Something like gargoyles that adorns the western church and cathederals, although their function and meaning are different.

The enourmous gold plated sleeping buddha, the major attraction at Wat Pho. His soles are actually inlaid with mother pearls.

The inside of the wat that houses the reclining buddha is decorated with paintings depicting the life and stories of the Buddha.

At the other side of the wall is placed with row of alm bowls. Visitors make their wishes while filling the bowls with loose coins one by one to the last bowl, hoping for a fullfilled prayers.

 A devotee praying at the altar.

 On our way out, we spot a black feline, who made the wat her home.

Another two residents of the wat.

On the way to the Grand Palace, we notice a market selling dried sea products which we decide to pop and see. One of the seller pose for me, with his look I think he could better be in the film industry, instead of dried, salty fish business.

Dried squids.

The entrance to the market.

It is a bit quiet in the market despite the busy street outside, outshined by the grandeur of the nearby Wat Pho and Grand Palace.

Typical scene at the market.

Monks of nearby wat shopping for groceries.

Lotus buds on sell, commonly used for praying.

Massage oils compressed by Wat Pho masseurs and masseuses. Yup, Wat Pho is also the center and school teaching the art of traditional Thai massage, were some of the techniques could be found inscribed on the wall of the temple, dating as old as the reign of King Rama III.

From the market, we continue walking around the high concrete walls and finally arrived at the palace gate. Welcome to the Grand Palace!

The Grand Palace complex was established in 1782 by King Rama I and consists of not only the royal residence and throne halls, but also government office and and the renowned Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Previously, the royal palace and central administration was at Thonburi, located on the other side of the Chao Phraya river.

The entrance fee to the palace costs us 250B each, which we duly paid. Our first experience of the palace is the Wat Phra Keaw, or the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Upon entering the shrine we are greeted by the giant demon-guardian, Yak.

The walls of the wat are lavishly decorated with paitings of the Ramakian epic, the Thai version of Ramayana.

 Garudas and nagas aligning the wall of Ubosot, the main assembly hall that houses the Emerald Buddha.

Not all that glitters are gold. The ubosot is decorated with golden paint and colorful mosaic mirrors which given it a splash of opulance and grandeur. The whole temple shining and glittering under the hot sun.

A lion statue guarding the main entrance to the Wat of the Emerald Buddha.

Before entering the temple, the devotees dip the lotus buds in the golden tray of holy water,

and sprinkle it on themselves. A cleansing ritual, maybe?

The Emerald Buddha in its summer costume. It is actually made of green jade, and was covered with plaster when founded in a stupa in Chiang Rai, year 1434.  The head monk who made the discovery soon realized that the statue original color and thought it is of emerald, and thus became its namesake.

Outside the ubosot, we caught up with demon gods upholding the golden pagodas. From the look of their faces, it must be really heavy.

Restoration work in progress.

The wat with four different styles of architecture at the upper terrace.

The Royal Pantheon, where the statues of the royal family of the Chakri dynasty are enshrined.

Scattered around the terrace are sculptures of mystical beings, such as the five headed naga.

And the giant demon Yaksha, guarding all the entrances.

But I’m more interested with the bird and the bee, swarming the blooming lotus at the court yard. 

A bird resting on the chofa.

A sneak peek of the Borom Phiman Mansion, the royal residence of King Bhumibol. Visitors are not allowed in; this picture is taken through the gate. I hope I could see a glimpse of His Majesty.

The Chakri Maha Prasat, or the Royal Reception Hall that we pass through on our way out. An english style architecture with a hint of Thai.

A soldier guarding the entrance to the palace, which is well guarded with human and demon alike. Think twice before trespassing.

It is already noon; we have to go back to check out from the hotel and head to the airport to catch our 5.30pm flight to KL. We hop into the boat from Maharaj Pier to the Sathorn Pier, which interlink with BTS station Saphan Thaksin. Above is the view of the Grand Palace complex that we have just visited.

On the other side is Wat Arun, the Temple of the Dawn.

A brief walk outside the Sathorn pier,  we stumble into food stalls serving halal foods, sandwiched in between 7-11 and some shoplots . Midday, and lunch is most welcome.

Our simple lunch, tom yum beehoon and kah feh yen. The sellers do not understand english at all and they don’t have the menu; so we just pointing to our neighbours food. Anything, as long it is halal. The tom yam is a bit different from what we usually ate backhome, a regional version perhaps. The devilish red and spicy that we usually ate is the southern version. Here the tom yam is serves in clear soup; you have to stir with the tom yam paste to get the taste.

Lunch over, we take the BTS back to the hotel and check out. To the airport, we simply take the MRT from Sam Yan to Asok, where we change to skytrain to Phaya Thai station (which interlink with the airport rail line).

The spartan interior of the Suvarnabumi airport. It is quite a walk to the departure hall, plus queuing for check in and immigration is long and troublesome; thus being early for your flight is a good advise (while queuing there are actually a few  overloaded visitors whose done shopping a little bit too much and trying to compromise on the luggage fee – most of our valuable time is wasted waiting for them settling their issues).

While waiting for DH being thoroughly checked by the immigration officers (yup, he’s been requested to remove his belt and some are asked to take out the socks!) I linger around and notice this nice sculpture. On later research I found out it means “The churning of the ocean milk”, one of the important episode in the Mahabrata epic.

FD3575 to Kuala Lumpur is already calling.

At the departure hall, waiting for our flight.

The last view of Suvarnabumi airport before we take off. Good bye Bangkok and till we meet again!

From the Southern Bus terminal, we take a cab to Khao San road, as it is nearby and I was told that there are a few halal joints available. We plan to go to the Ratanakossin Island afterward – if time permits; therefore Khao San would be a good pit stop to refuel with regards to its distance.

Khao San Road in Banglamphoo, or widely known as the backpacker street. Here, farangs can be spotted everywhere.

Thai ubiquitous transport waiting for passengers.

Khao San is famous for two things – cheap and fake items. I’m thinking of getting myself an instant Ph.D from Oxford. Not!

We finally arrive at Aiesah Rosdee, where we have our delayed lunch.

Dumbfounded DH, struggling to select what to eat. All menu look appetizing.

Being typical Malays that cannot survive without carbo diet, we settle with yellow chicken rice and some spring rolls. Not bad at all. Far better from the one that we ate at the MBK food court.

Lunch over, we flag a tuk tuk in front the restaurant and ask for Phra Artit pier.

At the Phra Artit pier, queuing for the boat. The fee is 25bhat one way. For 120bhat, you will get unlimited day ride.

The view inside the boat.

Menam Chao Phraya, a famous name that I first learned (and still remember!) from my high school geography book. The water is a bit choppy today.

Maharaj pier, 5 minutes later.

Outside the pier, we are greeted by street vendors along the way to the Grand Palace.

A hawker selling photos of the royalties.

We notice that the Thais love their king so much, the devotion are reflected everywhere. His majesty can be seen on buildings, billboards, banners, calendars, posters and murals in every corner of the country.

An eerie life-like miniature monks. Note the expression and the skin texture. They look so real.

Too bad it is already 4.30pm when we reach the Grand Palace, and it is already close for the day. So we just spend our time lingering around the market. On the way back to the hotel, we stop by Silom for a stroll at the Patpong night market, something like our own Petaling Street, with exception to the strip bars and ’x-rated’ stuff off course, which Patpong is famous for.

A view inside Patpong, a place to go for if you are looking for not so cheap (depends on your bargain skills) imitation goods and some cheap ‘meat’ for men, women and anything in between.

Check-in completes, we leave our bags and without wasting time quickly headed back to the Sam Yan MRT to board the train to Chatuchak. We only have a few hours before the market close. In Bangkok, it is custom that you need to bypass the metal detector upon entering their MRTs and once it’s beeping, be ready to let your bags scrutinized by the guards. It is quite an inconvenience affair; but we are somehow getting used to it after a while.

The exit to Chatchucak Market via the Kamphaeng Phet station. There are ways of coming here, you could also stop at the Chatuchak Park station or Mo Chit Station (if you are taking BTS) however a bit of walk is required. Kamphaeng Phet is the easiest; the market is just a step outside the station.

The sun is unforgiving, and lunch is already overdue. A halal joint selling snacks is really a savior.

Chocolate coated banana. Yummy! (Another version of Indonesia cheese coated banana).

Young busker with an instrument similar to our own native Sarawakians.

Let the bargain hunting begins!

Handicrafts, religious artifacts, food, clothing, household items, plants, pets.. you name it, they got it. Ladies would go crazy.

From beaded necklace…

to intricately carved elephants…

 Chatuchak is also the home of this feline family.

Takraw balls, played in a traditional ball game of flying kicks. A favorite sport shared by both countries – Malaysia and Thailand.

Sawadeeka…

Religous workmanships.

Our stroll inside the Chatuchak maze bring us to the clock tower in the middle of the market, of where we come across an eatery with moon and star symbols – a relief to our hunger pangs. Chocolate coated banana is simply not enough for us, food lovers.

We ordered spicy thai beef noodle (I simply point it out as it looks marvelous in the picture) and kah feh yen (iced coffee) for lunch. The meat is tender and the soup is delicious (a bit hot, but that’s okay!) – an awesome combination, and halal too! Recommended if you are looking for halal food at Chatuchak.

Lunch over; we continue with the shopping spree. I spotted a girl deeply occupied with her doll and pay no heed to the chaotic surrounding – but soon she realize that I am about to take her photo, she smile and pose! Such a cute, beautiful smile and that really makes my day!

(Her genuine smile reminds me of my kids and I wonder how they are doing…I’m making mental note to call them tonight.)

Soi cowboy?

Since the market only opens on weekends, the place is flooded with people that wish not to miss the good bargain.

We decide to leave the spot as the day is getting late and many stalls have starting to pack up and close. On the way, we bypass a food stall with heap of salads and fresh veggies. That is really too much of a good thing!

We later find out that the salads are actually condiments for the hot beef soup – which is free flow, and patrons can add in as much as they like!

Has BN extended their political territory? Green tinted some more, a union with PAS at last?

While looking for direction, I stumble into Thai’s ubiquitous transports. The sun is almost down, and while waiting for passenger to finish with their shopping, it won’t hurt to loosen up a bit.

We walk across Chatuchak park to the Mo Chit station, and by the time we reach there it is already nightime.

Exit at National Stadium Station.

Mah Boon Krong Mall is adjacent, and that is where we are going next.

Inside, a typical shopping complex. The ambience is similar to our own Berjaya Times Square in KL, and likewise it is swarming with tourists – especially the Arabs.  Westerners are less likely to be seen, perhaps they are mostly occupied at the ‘red’ area or the backpackers street.

Apart from visiting the complex which has been claimed as the most visited in Bangkok, our main intention is to visit its food court. Our first try of the yellow rice – they said it is chicken curry but the taste is far cry from it. Nevertheless, since halal food is scarce, the plates are emptied in mere seconds. Huhu.

Bangkok, the city of life. The MBK is about to close just after we finish our late dinner, and as usual DH will go for the after the meal puff. We walk to the nearby Bangkok Art & Culture Center, and while waiting for him I just enjoy nightime in Bangkok. We straight back to the hotel afterwards and have a good rest; we need to wake up early for tomorrow’s agenda.

>> Next: The Train Trip to Ayutthaya

24 July 2011. We will take off to Bangkok for our inaugural visit to the land of the white elephant. Our FD3572 flight will only depart at 10.45am from LCCT, but we are already there at the airport as early as eight. It is Sunday, throngs of people would be leaving or entering the airport so we thought it is better to be early to avoid the traffic.

Waiting for our AirAsia FD3572 flight to Bangkok at Gate T10.

One and half hours later, 35,000 ft above the sea. We are almost there. Pray for our safe landing.

Our breakfast of the day, nasi lemak. This is the last portion of the in-flight meal that I manage to grab, a typical of being in very early or very late flight. I should remind myself to pre-book my meal before boarding. Miss the lasagna though.. sigh *__*

Flying above Bangkok.

The plane make a sharp turn towards Suvarnabumi airport, bypassing the squares of green.

A glimpse of Bangkok from the above.

 Suvarnabumi at last! TOA is 1145hr local time, an hour late from Kuala Lumpur.

From the landing bay, we transit to the main arrival gate by the airport shuttle (which is quite a resemblance of our own RapidKL).

Sawadee Krup, Bangkok! Or should we say “Sawadee Krup Krungthep Mahanakorn Boworn Rattanakosin Mahintharayuttha Mahadilokpop Noparatratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniveymahasathan Amornpiman Avatransathit Sakkathattiay-avisnukarmprasit” which means ” Greetings to Great city of angels; the repository of divine gems; the great land unconquerable; the grand and prominent realm; the royal and delightful capital full of nine noble gems; the highest royal dwelling and grand palace; the divine shelter and living place of reincarnated spirits”? That is Bangkok’s other name, the longest in the world as recognized by the Guinesss Book of Records. To say it in one breath could be fun :)

We gag over the spartan interior of the airport complex. Definitely huge and complicated.

 Huge enough to accomodate all those incoming airliners.

Pass immigration, we head to the arrival hall, looking for any signage towards the CityLink train station.

There are a few options to get to the city from the airport – by buses, taxis and train. We opt for the fastest, easiest and cheapest – the train. The airport train interconnects with BTS Skytrain (Bangkok Transit System) and MRT (Mass Rapid Transport), and since our pre-book hostel is nearby one, thus it will make a straightforward journey.

We purchase the City Line ticket from the machine for BHT45 one way to Makassan Station. That is equivalent to roughly RM4.50. Another link to the city  is via the Express Line, which make less stops and cost higher (about BHT150) and runs every 30 minutes.

In the train towards the city.

We exit at Makassan Station and walk towards the Petchaburi Station for the MRT. You could either stops at Makassan or Phaya Thai Station which is the end of the line and interconnects with BTS.

Walking to the nearby Petchaburi MRT to our hostel in Rama IV Road.

From Petchaburi, we take train to Sam Yan station and walk a bit towards Silom. We will be staying at Take-a-nap, a boutique hostel in Rama IV Road. We opt for this one as it sits in between walking distance to both BTS  (Silom) and MRT (Sam Yan). Moreover it also serves halal breakfast; and being a shoestring traveller in a country that halal food is hard to find, that is indeed very good enough.

Our room for BHT800 per night. Nothing much, but yet simple, nice and cozy.

>> Next: Chatuchak Market and MBK Mall.